Why the Setting Shapes the Menu

A pub with water at the end of the garden tends to cook to its surroundings. Inland, away from the coast, a riverside kitchen has a natural larder on its doorstep: brown trout from the Test or the Itchen, crayfish from the chalk streams, perch and pike from the Broads, char from Windermere and Ullswater. A lakeside pub on Coniston or Derwentwater will lean on similar produce, plus the smoked fish and cured meats that have long been a staple of upland Cumbria.

That geography shapes everything, from the specials board to the beer list. Menus change with what the boats bring in, and the best pubs keep the cooking simple so the ingredients speak for themselves. Arrive hungry, but arrive curious.

Fresh from the Water: Fish and Shellfish

If a pub is close enough to smell the water, the fish should be the reason you came. Expect the catch to be listed by name rather than hidden behind the word "fish" — perhaps a whole grilled mackerel with gooseberry, pan-fried plaice with brown butter and capers, or a fillet of sea trout with samphire gathered from the marsh.

• Whole fish, grilled or baked: mackerel, bream, sea bass, small pollack. Usually the freshest thing on the board.
• Smoked and cured: smoked mackerel pâté, potted brown shrimp, gravadlax, smoked trout with horseradish cream.
• Shellfish: Devon crab sandwiches, mussels in cider or cream, prawn cocktail done properly, oysters in season (the months with an "r").
• Inland classics: brown trout with almonds, crayfish tails in a light bisque, perch fillets fried in butter.

Ask what came in that morning, and where from. A good landlord will name the boat, the quay or the river without hesitation. If the answer is vague, order the pie instead.

Pies, Puddings and Proper Platefuls

Water and walking go together, and walking builds an appetite that only pastry can answer. Riverside pubs are traditionally generous places, and the pie is their quiet masterpiece. Look for a shortcrust or hot-water-crust case with real gravy, not a thickened afterthought.

• Steak and ale pie: the classic, ideally made with the same bitter that's on draught. Deep, dark and glossy.
• Fish pie: smoked haddock, salmon and prawn under mash, with a sharp Cheddar crust.
• Fisherman's pie, Cumberland sausage and mash, slow-braised lamb: sturdy plates built for cold mornings on the water.
• Sunday roast: often local beef, pork with crackling, or a nut roast for the vegetarians in the crew.

Sides matter more than they should. Triple-cooked chips, buttered new potatoes, braised red cabbage in winter and mushy peas with a splash of vinegar all signal a kitchen that cares about the details.

Seasonal Salads and Lighter Bites

Not every riverside lunch needs to be a feast. From late spring onwards, the best pubs put out plates built for warm afternoons on a terrace: leaves, herbs and vegetables grown close by, dressed with restraint.

• Warm smoked trout salad with new potatoes, rocket and a lemon oil dressing.
• Crab or prawn salad with brown bread and butter — a West Country and East Anglian staple.
• Goat's cheese and beetroot with toasted walnuts, popular in the gentler counties.
• Ploughman's boards with local ham, cheese, chutney, pickled onions and a crusty cob.
• Sandwiches filled with hot smoked salmon, salt beef or Cheddar and ale chutney, wrapped for a walk along the towpath.

Vegetarian cooking has improved enormously in these kitchens. Expect a decent risotto, a wild mushroom tart or a herby grain bowl rather than a single apologetic option.

Pints That Belong With the Plate

Real ale is the traditional partner, and geography steers the glass. In the West Country you'll find golden ales and dry ciders. In Yorkshire and the North, bitters with a pronounced hop bite. In the Fens and the Broads, milder session ales that won't overwhelm delicate fish.

• Golden ale or pale ale: the safest match for white fish, shellfish and salads.
• Best bitter: ideal with steak pie, roast beef and strong cheese.
• Stout or porter: excellent with smoked fish, oysters and anything chocolatey for pudding.
• Local cider: perfect with pork, ham and ploughman's plates.

Healthier drinkers are well served too: elderflower pressé, cloudy apple juice and a decent pot of tea are standard. In winter, look for mulled cider or a spiced ale on the bar.

How to Get the Best From the Menu

A few small habits will noticeably improve your meal. Sit down, look at the board before the menu, and ask two questions: what came in today, and what's the kitchen proud of? Staff will usually steer you honestly.

Book ahead if you want a window table, and be aware that tides and weather affect everything. High water brings boats and crowds; a wet Tuesday in February means a quieter, warmer pub and often a better chat with the landlord. Check whether the kitchen closes between lunch and dinner, and whether dogs are welcome in the bar — many are, which is one of the great pleasures of a walkers' pub.

Finally, don't overlook the simple things. A bowl of chips and a pint on a mooring, with swans drifting past and the light going amber over the water, is a meal you'll remember longer than any tasting menu. That's the real appeal of riverside and lakeside eating: good local food, unpretentiously served, in a place worth sitting still for.